A very unusual putter by this famous club maker having a square grip with no covering leather or hide material. The length is 32” (81cm).
This putter was originally supplied to T. Travers who was the professional & club maker at Tramore, Wexford, Ireland from 1909 to 1911, then at Kingstown, Dublin from 1914 to 1922 and finally at Dun Laoghaire, Dublin from 1923 to 1932. His name is stamped to the head above the Tom Stewart ‘pipe’ cleekmark and is also stamped to the shaft just below the square grip end of the shaft.
The head has been cleaned and polished. The face is stamped with a small dot punched pattern. The word Putter is stamped at the toe end of the blade and there is also a Tom Stewart inspection mark stamped above. The flange measures ¾” at the widest point and the length of the blade is 4.25” (11cm) from toe to heel along the rear.
The top end of the shaft is domed so presumably this putter was originally made 32” (81cm) in length, possibly for a lady player.
The shaft is straight with the square grip end measuring approximately 10” (25cm).
Born in 1861, Thomas Stewart became one of the most respected manufacturers of irons of his era with many of the top players selecting to use his irons above others. Players such as Tom Morris, James Braid, Harry Vardon, Jamie Anderson and Robert Maxwell to name just a few all played with Stewart irons.
Having served his time at the Robert White forge in St. Andrews he opened his own forge in 1893 and was soon supplying some of the prominent club makers in St. Andrews such as Tom Morris, Robert Forgan and D. & W. Auchterlonie as well as the famous McEwan club making family in Edinburgh.
His cleek mark was an ‘old clay pipe’ which he first used in 1893. He eventually registered the ‘Pipe’ as his trade mark in 1905 and from there onwards he added the trade mark lettering under the pipe ‘T.S.St. A. REG.TRADEMARK’. Between the years 1895 to 1905 he also used a ‘Serpent’ mark to designate clubs made for ladies and juniors. Tom was a stickler for quality and would reject heads if they did not meet with his approval, however instead of discarding these heads he added a reject mark depicting a non realistic star or a spider and then sold these heads to other club makers.
Rather than invent and patent his own designs he tended to copy other manufacturers patents including the Hugh Logan Genii and the Fairlie’s anti-shank irons. By the mid 1920’s he was producing the ‘modern’ 1, 2, 3 and 4 irons and it is these irons that are most sort after by today’s hickory players.
Tom was a member at the Old Course St. Andrews playing 3 to 4 times each week until his death in 1931.
Buying Hickory Clubs for Play
This club(s) has been carefully inspected and sympathetically restored to a condition suitable for playing hickory golf. However it is important to remember that the average age of a hickory club is between 80 to 100 years and even older in some cases so you are purchasing an item of golf history, i.e. a golfing antique.
The majority of hickory clubs will be fine for play when handled with care but there are a few that even after being restored can have problems. For example iron heads become loose, shafts can split and socket joints do sometimes break down under the stress of the golf swing, the impact of hitting a golf ball or another hard object such as a stone or practice mat. These are the risks that you must be prepared to accept when playing with hickory clubs and therefore we cannot be held responsible should such damage occur.
GOLF BALLS – Important Advice.
It is always advisable to use a ‘soft feel’ ball when playing hickory golf to help prevent damaging the clubs. Most modern balls have a hard outer coating that can damage the face of a wood and put unnecessary strain on the socket joint. Hard balls can also cause an iron head/hosel to become loose from the wooden shaft. Driving range balls also invariably have a hard outer coating, plus hitting off rubber practice mats can sometimes loosen iron heads. Always practice on a grass surface.
Please refer to New Mesh & Dimple Balls for Hickory Play (see main menu) to view our replica 1920’s style soft feel balls.
Keeping Your Club(s) In Good Condition:
After a round of golf, should your clubs have become wet during play please ensure that you thoroughly clean and dry the heads when arriving home. Applying a thin coat of ‘gun oil’ to the iron heads helps protect against rust forming.
It is advisable to store your hickory clubs in a cool dry place. Too much moisture or heat can affect the hickory shafts, for example the shaft can shrink within the hosel causing the head to become loose. The cooler the environment - the better.
Please refer to the Postal Prices, Payments & Returns page.
Orders consisting of more than one club will significantly reduce the postal charge for the added club(s) or other items, i.e. the cost to send up to 8 clubs is virtually the same as for one club so should a friend also wish to make a purchase then combine the orders and save money. Please contact me for a postal quote BEFORE placing your order on the website.
All deliveries are insured at no extra cost to the buyer giving you peace of mind that in the event that should an item(s) be lost or damaged during the delivery process you will be refunded in full. When the parcel arrives please check the condition of the parcel before signing for the delivery. This is most important because the courier will not accept liability for damage if the parcel is signed for in good condition and then a complaint is lodged at a later date. If this happens then I will not be able to claim from the courier which means that I will be unable to refund yourself.